Rather than doing yet another ‘predictions for 2013’ post I thought that now we are well into January and I think I’ve got some ideas about where wine is going in 2013, I would sum up my thoughts. This has nothing to do with me not getting around to writing my predictions on time. No siree.
The ‘natural’ wine squabble debate will continue. Detractors will continue to discredit the ‘natural’ wine movement. Advocates will continue to discredit the mainstream wine market. I think we will see producers, distributors and merchants putting less emphasis on the word ‘natural’ and more emphasis on other words like ‘real’ or ‘authentic’. Whatever word we use, I’d like to see a less conflict in the industry about ‘natural’ wine. I think most people would like to see wines with less chemical intervention or manipulation and more emphasis on sense of place. However, lets be pragmatic, not dogmatic. We should praise producers for taking steps in the right direction. Not slag off anyone who dares to add sulphur to their wines. I found far too many wines that smelled of cider or cow shit in 2012. “Oh it’s meant to smell like that”. “That’s his rustic style”. I hope I never hear those words in 2013. Ultimately, lets drop the ‘natural’ tag and focus on producing and drinking high quality wines that are expressive of their terroir.
Sustainability encompasses more than just ecological sustainability. True sustainability also includes financial sustainability for all involved. In the same month that we learned that the average price of wine in the UK has finally broken the £5 mark, it was also reported that two major wine businesses are in trouble. Casella, the company behind low-end, mass market brand Yellow Tail is in trouble and Pressiors de France, suppliers of cheap Champagne to supermarkets has gone into administration. And don’t forget that wine production volumes were down all around the world in 2012 which will put upwards pressure on prices. So, it sounds like there could be trouble brewing at the bottom end of the market. Which could ultimately be a good thing. The challenge for the wine industry is to get consumers to trade up, not walk away. I think that 2013 is a great opportunity for specialist wine shops to grab a slice of the market.
There will be another scandal involving – shock horror – a wine journalist receiving undeclared sums of money from a wine producer. I’m seeing more and more writers disclosing what they have received in the way of expenses/accommodation/meals/used notes in brown envelopes, which is creditable. But I can’t see the end of this sort of story any time soon. In 2013 wine writers need to work harder than ever to ensure, and above all demonstrate, impartiality.
Bordeaux en primeur will be just as boring as every other year. Yawn. Chinese market. Yawn. Liv-Ex. Yawn. Super seconds. Yawn. Flying fifths. Wake me up when it’s over and people get back to talking & blogging about something, anything, else.
I will drink more exciting wine in 2013 than I ever have before. And I hope you do too. Cheers.
Vino Vero 